View Full Version : Weed/Snag Guards?

02-01-2011, 10:18 AM
I am working on some bottom flies and I have experimented with a few different types of weed guards. I am having a hard time keeping the single-mono line straight for a single-setup. I think using a double-mono will give the fly better balance if I can mount it correctly.

Any tips on tying these in would greatly be appreciated. I am having to move my hook around 3-4 times in the vice to get it setup.:rolleyes:

02-01-2011, 10:49 AM
I tried a lot of different weedguards when I was flyfishing for bass in TX, and I will never again use a mono weedguard. If they are stiff enough to work, they are too stiff for any but the biggest fish to bite (I believe when they bite the stiff weedguard the hooks rolls over flat in their mouth and slips out, instead of biting), or the mono gets in the way of the hook point itself, plus the issues of "lifetime"of the fly. Mono gets warped and bent of of shape too easily. The fly pictured may have the weedguards in teh right place now, but give it a week in a flybox and it will me mis-shaped.

I bought wire weedguards at the fly shop and like those ok, except the points were sharp. Then I found these eagle claw hooks 449WA. They are a bait hook with a wire weedguard loop. They are very effective, and dont hinder hooks ups. I would mash the barbs on the shank down to make it smooth, and would cut off the plastic holding the wire guard on, and then tie the guard back in with thread, and tie my fly as usual,rabbit strips, deceivers, poppers, etc. No weedguard is ever perfect, but this was the best I ever found. Only problem is the smallest I ever found the hook in teh stores was a #1, but a search on the web says you can order them as small as a 6. They go up to 5/0 :cool:

Looks like there is a 249W is plain shank, no baitholder barbs.

02-01-2011, 11:43 AM
I stopped using weedguards also, Like JayB, I believe I missed strikes because of the guard bouncing off of the fish's mouth and preventing a hook up.

I had an epiphany moment when I realized that I should be tying crawfish, Muddlers, leeches, etc. like my saltwater flats flies with the hook barb UP! Also, putting some lead wire on the hook shank would make the CG lower, and the fly would turn barb up. Also, the lead wire helped the fly to sink to the bottom faster. My success rate greatly improved, and I caught a lot less turtle grass and vegetation.


02-01-2011, 01:13 PM
I tie my crayfish and other smallmouth "bottom bumping" patterns with a crappie sized tube jighead. I cut the forward section in front of the 90 degree angle off with a wire cutters to lighten the fly. (If you don't make sure you have a good warranty to replace your tip.) Then I flatten the remaining lead with a pliers. I dip the hook in jig paint and it blends in with the fly body.

If you get any of Dave Whitlock's materials (Books, DVD's etc.) on tying bass flies he uses a single mono tied over the bend on the hook as a weed guard. His placement of the mono is very specific and I've found works. I throw streamers into the root tangles of mangroves.
I very highly recommend checking it out.

I believe that any fish I've lost using Whitlock's weed guard are negated by the increase in strikes by being able to place the fly where the fish are.

Randall Sale

02-01-2011, 09:23 PM

I had an epiphany moment when I realized that I should be tying crawfish, Muddlers, leeches, etc. like my saltwater flats flies with the hook barb UP! ...


Bill, you are a genius!:biggrin: