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Rodonthefly
03-16-2012, 03:18 PM
Ok this topic may have already been talked about here, but I was wondering. Ok anyone knows me knows that I float and fish the Clinch most of the time. With all the high water we are haveing, who drops anchor? and trys to fish high water on the Clinch?

I personaly have tried it, hung and lost two anchors. Not to mention almost sank the boat one time and the other I about threw some one out of the boat. IMO I think it can be done with one but on two it's just been to much **** trouble for me.

Corbo
03-16-2012, 06:11 PM
Now we know how Shawn accumulated so many anchors!

Just a thought/suggestion... consider tying a float onto your anchor line near where it is attached to your boat so you can retrieve at low water. In an emergency you can cut the line and the float is already on your line.

My friend Bill got pulled out of his boat on the Delaware River many years ago... he was stuck on bottom and had a lot of line in his boat when the boat went side-ways in the current... he could not hang on any longer so he let go of the line and was promply hauled overboard as the line was wrapped around his leg. he was lucky to survive.

Be careful so your boat doesn't wind up in a "widow's sale".

old east tn boy
03-16-2012, 07:44 PM
I lost one anchor on the Clinch after deciding that was better than capsizing. Two generators were running. I'll never do that again!

waterwolf
03-16-2012, 11:01 PM
I have only lost one anchor in the clinch and it was during a spilling episode, right above the jail. I dropped anchor to help net a fish, and the current wouldn't allow it to catch until it wedged in cut in one of the ledges. It **** near yanked us out of the boat. The solution was easy in a drift boat, I simply released the anchor catch and let all the rope feed out. Went back a week later and got everything back.

I would not recommend anchoring on spilling water levels or sluicing water levels. However, I have never had issues with 2 generator flows, and do it routinely when I am out on those flows.

If you are smart about it, and know the warning signs of a dangerous situation it is very easy to either cut the rope or let it slip through to avoid getting dumped.

MadisonBoats
03-17-2012, 11:06 AM
Oh man! I sure do find tons of anchors on the river. Oddly enough; most of them are not wedged or hung up. Most of them are found in open areas with not obstructions.:rolleyes:

I would never anchor with the river spilling. I think you could really get yourself hurt or sink your boat. I know of several flipped boat accidents already this past Winter.

I think the mushroom anchors work the best on one-two generators. Note; not in holding position but, in just slowing your drift hand letting them drag.

The forked anchors (river anchors) will always find a nice shoal to get hung on and they are easily lost.

I personally like using my chain-ball on the river in most conditions. However; I have lost one due to a pulley failure.

There is a simple technique to help retrieve stuck anchors. It involves wrapping a piece of rope around the base(bottom) of the anchor so that it can be leverage from the bottom up to reverse pull it from its stuck position. Run the tag end of the rope up the side of the anchor and feed a folded strand of the rope through the anchor top. Use some electrical tape and tape the rope around the anchor side. Make a folded knot on the initial side of the anchor mount to attach the main anchor rope.

The idea is that if you get hung; you can pull up hard and tear the tape. The rope will pull out of the anchor hole and pull tight to the bottom mounting position and allow you to retrieve the anchor from the bottom.

Also; another tip is to make an arrester in one end of the rope to act as a shock absorber in fast current. This simply involves folding your anchor rope and wrapping twine or tape around it to hold in normal use. In case of a hang; it will tear the binding and release the extra line to cushion the snag.

Here is a picture of one I made for a friend.
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/424428_10150768411963319_718858318_11541682_165734 9077_n.jpg

*Also; if you lose your anchor and need a new one-send me an email and I should be able to hook you up with a one I have found. Free of course! :smile:

**Here is a link to an excellent website about river anchoring. He also has tons of great fishing and boating information. http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Anchoring.htm

Rodonthefly
03-18-2012, 08:49 PM
So what kind of anchors do you guys use? Also do you pick your spots to drop or could you care less about ledges logs etc? Seems everytime I have droped anchor I don't stop untill I catch a ledge and its to late.
I have been to dag gum tight to but a drift boat anchor, and have always used a mushroom anchor that's 25 or 30 pounds. Is that my problem?

waterwolf
03-18-2012, 10:30 PM
So what kind of anchors do you guys use? Also do you pick your spots to drop or could you care less about ledges logs etc? Seems everytime I have droped anchor I don't stop untill I catch a ledge and its to late.
I have been to dag gum tight to but a drift boat anchor, and have always used a mushroom anchor that's 25 or 30 pounds. Is that my problem?


I use a standard spiked drift boat anchor made of steel. I drop wherever I feel like it, and the easiest way to make sure an anchor catches is to back row to slow the boat when you drop. If you drop at normal current speed it makes it far more likely the anchor will skip until it is able to get a good hold, which usually means it gets hung.

One thing to keep in mind is that I would not anchor anything other than a drift boat or raft in a river. Drift boats are designed to be anchored in heavy flows and one would really have to screw up to turn one over. All the other boat types should never be anchored in heavy flows, and if it has to happen always anchor from the bow.

Corbo
03-18-2012, 11:25 PM
Rod & company

One aspect not mentioned is SCOPE... the amount of line you are letting out behind the boat.

The greater the scope the better on heavy flows as the angle with the bottom becomes more acute and you are less likely to be dragged under.

I have mostly used 3 blade river anchors like the one Shawn has posted and the weights have ranged from 18 to 30 pounds..... wicked expensive to replace... too bad the rubber coating is not orange.

I have found that many times in heavy flows it is best to "feel" the anchor drag (by hand) until it catches then slowly pay out line until your angle gets very acute instead of just tossing it out and hoping to catch bottom.

A couple times I have filled my tee-shirt with rocks as a temporary anchor after donating one to the river. 100 feet of 3/16 rope is cheap enough to have stowed on-board and it's very strong as I used it on my Tracker Inboard jet for years, a very heavy boat not really suitable here so I sold it.

I have ALWAYS told everyone aboard that nobody stands up until the anchor is hooked and I say it's safe... nothing worse than coming up hard on the anchor... people get tossed around and gear gets broken when they fall on it.

I strongly recommend electric winch anchor systems as they stow the line and you can still row, use an electric or an outboard while retrieving line.

BTW.... I have a big assed hammer drill if anyone wants to drill a hole through a big rock to use as an anchor!

Bfish
03-19-2012, 11:57 AM
Long scope=snagged anchor in a river. While long scope lessens the downward pull on the gunnel, it just isn't practical in a river situation, IMO.

Go heavy anchor, really heavy, and keep the line short (nearly vertical).

MadisonBoats
03-19-2012, 06:47 PM
The key factors for most of the tailwaters in E. TN are CFS Rate and the displacement amount of the boat. I usually clamp an old jumper cable claw with a rope attached to a tree branch if I am looking to hold a position. I had four-clamps left over when I wired my trolling motor mainline to my battery utilizing a nice Sears doorbusting sale on jumper cables.

Also; I use an spring loaded anchor davit I designed and built for my fishing on the Clinch. My setup utilizes a tackle and pulley design with a spring loaded cushion on one end. This acts as a shock absorber when I drag and get snagged.

I am still trying to perfect a setup for the Clinch. I have lost about 3 anchors in the past 4 years and one chain-ball. Try some of the techniques I posted earlier and see if they work for you Rod.

Also; let me know if you need another anchor and I will set it out for you or drop it off at your house the next time I visit my brother...:smile:

Rodonthefly
03-20-2012, 08:08 AM
The key factors for most of the tailwaters in E. TN are CFS Rate and the displacement amount of the boat. I usually clamp an old jumper cable claw with a rope attached to a tree branch if I am looking to hold a position. I had four-clamps left over when I wired my trolling motor mainline to my battery utilizing a nice Sears doorbusting sale on jumper cables.

Also; I use an spring loaded anchor davit I designed and built for my fishing on the Clinch. My setup utilizes a tackle and pulley design with a spring loaded cushion on one end. This acts as a shock absorber when I drag and get snagged.

I am still trying to perfect a setup for the Clinch. I have lost about 3 anchors in the past 4 years and one chain-ball. Try some of the techniques I posted earlier and see if they work for you Rod.

Also; let me know if you need another anchor and I will set it out for you or drop it off at your house the next time I visit my brother...:smile:

I might take you up on that if you have a 30 pounder laying around. Or an extra chain ball that weighs that much? Also I thought about looking around for a big piece of steal pipe and try makeing me on.

MadisonBoats
03-20-2012, 09:40 AM
Rod, I do have a 30# anchor; but, I promised it to a friend already.

Another thing I see often is those old window weights. I have found tons of these on the river. I did not know what they were at first. You may be able to find one of those in the 30# range.

You are welcome to one of the 15# anchors I have left. I could rig you one up with a release like my previous picture. Maybe it would help reduce the chances of losing one.

77punk
04-08-2012, 09:44 PM
i lost a mushroom anchor on the left channel of miller island a couple years ago trying to stop my canoe in shallow water (1 gen). it was the anchor or us, my canoe nearly tipped over taking my brother, myself and gear with it. this was not the first anchor we had lost so i decided if was going to keep buying anchors i might as well just dump my wallet out into the river. now i use two window weights bolted together at the top with a copper bolt, and a hose clamp in the middle to keep them together. i put a piece of a thick plastic straw over the bolt so the threads don't chew the rope, and painted them to help stave off rust. they have never hung up so bad i can't retrieve them, but they will not stop you very well in moving water. they also will stand up and lay back down, but i like the design as it almost never gets hung. i have not found the perfect answer to this problem yet. if i must stop in moving water i usually tie off to a tree along the bank for a bit

i used to use an old, heavily painted brake rotor sometimes for stopping mid stream but have learned its just not safe to do so in a canoe, especially with other boats around putting off a wake. also no matter how much i painted it i could not get it to cover the inside well enough to stop it from leaching rust into the river. i still carry it as a backup but am going to replace it with something better soon.

MadisonBoats
04-09-2012, 07:11 AM
i lost a mushroom anchor on the left channel of miller island a couple years ago trying to stop my canoe in shallow water (1 gen). it was the anchor or us, my canoe nearly tipped over taking my brother, myself and gear with it. this was not the first anchor we had lost so i decided if was going to keep buying anchors i might as well just dump my wallet out into the river. now i use two window weights bolted together at the top with a copper bolt, and a hose clamp in the middle to keep them together. i put a piece of a thick plastic straw over the bolt so the threads don't chew the rope, and painted them to help stave off rust. they have never hung up so bad i can't retrieve them, but they will not stop you very well in moving water. they also will stand up and lay back down, but i like the design as it almost never gets hung. i have not found the perfect answer to this problem yet. if i must stop in moving water i usually tie off to a tree along the bank for a bit

i used to use an old, heavily painted brake rotor sometimes for stopping mid stream but have learned its just not safe to do so in a canoe, especially with other boats around putting off a wake. also no matter how much i painted it i could not get it to cover the inside well enough to stop it from leaching rust into the river. i still carry it as a backup but am going to replace it with something better soon.

I see those window weights out there and I have heard they work well. Also; I have noticed many brake rotors as well....:frown:

I think you are being safe in not anchoring in a canoe. I see more of those flip on the river than anything. I don't think I would ever drift in a canoe again with a generator running. It was too unstable the few times I have tried it.