Originally Posted by Stana Claus
I'm pretty much in the same camp with Grannyknot in that I prefer to use the lead (or leadfree) wire wraps along the hookshank for most of the weight unless the pattern needs to have a thinner profile. I like to think having the weight distributed along the hook instead of concentrated at the eye makes the nymph drift more naturally as opposed to standing on it's head, but maybe that just a figment of my imagination.
The stiffness of the tippet makes it virtually impossible for a nymph to ride head down. Next time you are on the water, drop a bead head fly in the water and watch it, they always float head up. I am sure there is a way to get one to ride head down, but I have never personally seen it happen.
Originally Posted by Cane Pole
Obviously tungsten sinks much quicker than brass, but I disagree that it necessarily translates into more fish caught - in and of itself. There are many other important variables to consider.
I probably have an equal amount of brass and tungsten in my box. Maybe it's me, but I have never noticed that I catch more with one over the other. I know for sure that I have never left the river saying, "Dang, I should've used the tungsten today."
I can only speak to my personal experiences when tungsten first came to market. Being a guide at the time and hating the cost increase, I tried brass on one client and tungsten on the other. There was literally no comparison between how many more fish the tungsten beads turned versus brass beads. Since then I have seen it fishing with buddies who were fishing brass while I scorched them with tungsten. Everything equal...depth, drift etc etc and the tungsten simply worked better for the style of nymphing we do consistently.
When it comes to midges, tungsten is a must IMO unless fishing in the film where glass seems to work as well as anything, but with deep midging it makes a huge difference.