Originally Posted by SuperFly
Thanks for the great responses. I have a lot to look into before I drop some money in the new year, but at least now I know what I am looking for.
As for a outboard motor, is there a website that people post motors for sale or is it better to check craigslist?
I looked for Johnson "short shank" but came back with the first result being this forum thread. I tried short shaft and got more hits. I am assuming that the terms mean the same thing, if not let me know.
I also have a question about storage. I know that most people who have ski boats and such "winterize" their boats since they don't go in the water during fall and winter. Since we don't winterize them because we use them all year round are there any things that I need to consider from a maintenance point-of-view.
Also, I don't have a garage, but might have access to one if necessary. What is the next best way to store my boat between uses if I don't have a garage to place it in?
Thanks for the help. I truly appreciate every opinion.
Short shank in short shaft are the same thing....I believe my explanation is the generic of the two...
Winterizing is a huge deal when it comes to boats. Basically it comes down to freezing and cracking things due to expansion. Outboard motors are subject to any water freezing in the water jacket (a diagram of water passages around the upward motor block that cools the engine in operation). Some people will dry run their motor for a few seconds upon trailering. I don't like that approach due to the water-pump getting damaged. Not a big deal, but I would not do it with a new motor. Most of the time you will be ok if you store the motor upright and there are no blockages in the cooling system.
Another issue is the lower unit (foot) of the motor cracking due to water intrusion. I see this more than anything. A new foot costs more than a replacement motor in most cases. Basically; just make sure you have good seals and heavy weight foot oil in the lower unit.
I think it is good to fog the engine cylinders if the motor sits for several months to prevent rust and other issues.
Also, make sure you drain your carburetor of gas in the valves and in the bowl if you are storing it. This causes ah about 90% of engine trouble. Some people run Stabil in the fuel lines; but, this will only give you a month or two more protection from fuel destabilization. Try to stay away from Ethanol gas for your outboard motors. If you have a left over fuel at the end of the season; consider it junk gas and recycle it appropriately. I try not to purchase too much gas at any one time when using an outboard motor. They use very little and you will rarely run low on a trip in our area.
Add some environmental RV Antifreeze to the bilge and suction enough to flush the system of inert water. Bilge pumps crack like a boiled egg right at 32 degrees. Same process for fish holds, etc....
Always store the motor upright. Keep your battery inside a garage or building. Store it full and recharge about once a month. Several ways to do this...
Trolling motors are bad to freeze and break the seals. What happens is that there is always a small amount that gets in to the motor compartment. If the motor is hung on the wall in the shed with the propeller up; it will not drain out and it will freeze and make the broken seals worse. Plus, any water that is left in there will slowly rust away the motor. Always store them with the propeller pitched downward.
That is about all I can think of...