IMO the rod doesn't matter so much as technique.... a good snap to a good stop and a subtle haul at the appropriate moment.
The "pro casters" who demonstrate rods at shows for all the afore-mentioned companies CHEAT by underlining the rod so they can carry more line in the back cast. Typically they reduce by two line weights which makes the rod cast poorly (not load much) on short casts with less accuracy but this strategy makes the rod look like a real cannon. Very impressive at shows but then again they don't tell they are cheating when they show off!
I have won many nice Orvis rods up in Maine in distance casting tournaments by underlining and double hauling... backing flies out the rod tip if it doesn't tangle.
Rods are designed for the "weight" of the line over say the first 30 or 40 feet of line (what most people will "carry" on their back cast for a long cast).... rods are not designed to carry 70 feet on the back cast as they would be too stiff and un=manageable for most fishing.
Too much line (weight) on the back cast can make the rod go "soft" or piss out and not have the backbone necessary to blast out the fore cast.
<amy people find the new "super" rods have horrible accuracy up close and it's because they are tip action and roo stiff so OVER LINING can correct the problem.
I seriously believe many rod makers sell 6 weights but represent them as five weights.
If you have several different reels, lines and rods try under-lining and experimenting.... also clean & dress the line.
The weight of the line is what will wear you out as opposed to the weight of the rod/reel.
BTW.... I have an Orvis 12 weight for sale with anti-reverse DXR and it won't wear you out for at least an hour even when you cast umbrella rigs.