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Thread: Sulfur Sparkledun Tutorial

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Default Sulfur Sparkledun Tutorial

    First attempt at a fly tying tutorial. Let me know what you think.

    My recent trip to the South Holston has inspired me to develop my sulfur dry patterns for a possible return trip. The subject of this tutorial is a Sulfur Sparkledun. Not to mention this could come in handy on the Clinch as well.

    http://tnfishingfanatic.blogspot.com...tutorials.html

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Dayton, TN
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    Default

    Excellent tutorial, thanks for sharing! Would love to see more.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Norris, TN
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    Default

    Travis,
    Very nice tutorial and video. Great job on the camera use and at the vise. Thanks for sharing the pattern!
    “Every human has four endowments- self awareness, conscience, independent will, & creative imagination.
    These give us the ultimate human freedom... The
    power
    to choose, to respond, to change.”



  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Crossville, TN
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    Default

    Looks great Travis...I'm going to be tying up some of those for PMDs in Yellowstone and probably a couple other mayflies...
    "Then He said to them, 'Follow Me, and I will make you fishers of men.'" Matthew 4:19

    Guided Fly Fishing with David Knapp
    The Trout Zone Blog
    contact: TroutZoneAnglers at gmail dot com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Franklin, TN
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    Nice tutorial Travis. I always wonder how big a bundle of elk hair to clip off...looks like about the gap width...right?

  6. #6
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    Joel,

    It isn't an exact science for sure, and I generally just eyeball it. Haven't really developed a rule-of-thumb for it, but that is something I will think about next time I tie one.

    One thing that I have found that is very important is to have the correct type of hair. A fine deer hair, sometimes classified as coastal or summer, allows for more densely packed fibers and less splaying.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Hillbilly Hollow, NC
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    Default

    Nice flick Travis

    Joel O- always cut off about half again what you think you'll need. I would probably cut off about enough hair to equal the diameter of a pencil. By the time you remove the under fur, pull out the short pieces, and the ones with broken tips you'll have about the right amount.
    "Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it."
    Salvador Dali

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Franklin, TN
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    Thanks Flyman...I'll try your suggestion.

    Travis...I think I have some costal but its fairly dark and I have some trouble seeing it in the water. I have some bleached EH, but its not as fine ... oh well, time to experiment.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    86

    Default

    You could not be more right on deer hair selection. I learned that the hard way. When I first started tying I bought bleached deer hair with no regard to quality. The hair was to thick and it must have been taken from the belly because it was curved. Just because it says short/fine does not make it so. Needless to say that my first foray into comp duns was tragic at best. I eventually stumbled across truly straight and short/fine hair. All I can say is WOW what a difference. I actually destroyed my first flies and reused the hooks.

    The second thing I learned about deer hair was the under fur and how much there is in deer hair. I thought it would be a couple whacks with a stacker, check the tips, and run a comb through the hair. Wrong!! its more like WHACK, COMB, WHACK, COMB, WHACK, COMB. When in doubt whack some more. When all the fuzz is out of the deer hair the bundle is normally about half the original size.

    I know its a lot of work to get the under fur out but it makes the wing very tight and neat and slims the body down for the profile.

    Its just my 2 cents and hope it shortens the curve for a hair newbie.

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