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Old 09-22-2010, 10:44 AM
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Troutman Troutman is offline
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Default new project fishing machine

Finally found me a good deal on a fishing boat. Gonna be a fun project over the winter. Thinking maybe installing a casting deck across the front two bench seats and painting the entire boat. The drive on trailer will need new tires and wheel bearings and possibly new lights.
picked it up last evening from a buddy. 1967 Starcraft 14ft v-hull with a trolling motor. wonder how it will row? Will eventually get a 15-20hp motor but a 55lb thrust trolling motor will have to suffice for now.



the wood bench seats are solid, just need a good cleaning, sanding and paint


Madison boats, what kind of paint do you recommend? rustoleum?
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Old 09-22-2010, 12:20 PM
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MadisonBoats MadisonBoats is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troutman View Post
Finally found me a good deal on a fishing boat. Gonna be a fun project over the winter. Thinking maybe installing a casting deck across the front two bench seats and painting the entire boat. The drive on trailer will need new tires and wheel bearings and possibly new lights.
picked it up last evening from a buddy. 1967 Starcraft 14ft v-hull with a trolling motor. wonder how it will row? Will eventually get a 15-20hp motor but a 55lb thrust trolling motor will have to suffice for now.

the wood bench seats are solid, just need a good cleaning, sanding and paint

Madison boats, what kind of paint do you recommend? rustoleum?
Man, that will be a great boat for you. I will get you together a list of ideas and things I have addressed and used to help you fix this boat up for the river. One thing; these boats are not good rowing boats like a drift boat and you will have to spend some money on specialty oars. The Wally store oars will not work. Buy a good trolling motor and deep cycle battery. The trick will be in weighting the boat for balance. I doubt adding a platform in the front will work for you; unless you can fabricate it out of aluminum or something small; then, you will need to offset the weight in the back if you are standing there alone. These boats are great for the river and will get you to the spots; but, it is usually only best to fly fish one person from the boat unless you have someone that can control their casts. Works great to get to shoals and anchor and wade too. I will give you a good list on how to fix this boat up.

An $8 quart of Rustoleum works great; now - you cannot leave these boats in the water for more than a day or two; the paint will get penetrated and start flaking off-(if you leave it tied up to a dock or in a pond). I sanded all the old paint off my boat. Took fiberglass resin and painted all the seams (boat upside down), bondoed the dents. Sanded smooth, you can using an etching agent if you want; I just used Windex (2-3 bottles) and prepped it before priming. Use Rustoleum primer too. I had to cut my paint about 60-40 and ran about 3-4 coats.

I will add more info.... later... focus on keeping the boat balanced and light in your planning...
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Old 09-23-2010, 12:08 AM
DBKSTONE2 DBKSTONE2 is offline
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Troutman,

Nice boat and has a lot of promise for a project.

Madison,

You need to get off your butt and make us a drift boat. For those of us who are not boat craftsmen we need a local source for drifters. I know the market is small but think of the potential considering the lack of manufacturers east of the Mississippi. We need a low profile boat with quality casting braces. I also think a wider bottom say 60" would also provide some stability. I also like the kevlar bottoms that they are putting on some of the newer boats (Pavati). A boat around here with that type bottom would last several generations. I know its more expensive and it would have to be an option. I even like the diamond plated sides that you are seeing. I know it is WAY over kill for here but you have got to go to Willie boats home page and look at the one they have for sale. IT is orange and it is SWEEEETTT! I bet you could sell the crap out of that color here in VOL Country. All it needs is a power T.

GET CRACKIN'
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by DBKSTONE2 View Post
Troutman,

Nice boat and has a lot of promise for a project.

Madison,

You need to get off your butt and make us a drift boat. For those of us who are not boat craftsmen we need a local source for drifters. I know the market is small but think of the potential considering the lack of manufacturers east of the Mississippi. We need a low profile boat with quality casting braces. I also think a wider bottom say 60" would also provide some stability. I also like the kevlar bottoms that they are putting on some of the newer boats (Pavati). A boat around here with that type bottom would last several generations. I know its more expensive and it would have to be an option. I even like the diamond plated sides that you are seeing. I know it is WAY over kill for here but you have got to go to Willie boats home page and look at the one they have for sale. IT is orange and it is SWEEEETTT! I bet you could sell the crap out of that color here in VOL Country. All it needs is a power T.

GET CRACKIN'
Thanks bud for pushing me along....There is more to it than just doing it... OSHA Permits for VOC Emissions, Patent Laws, Liability Laws, etc. I wish I could just crank one out; which would only take me about a week by myself to build. But, I need to protect myself and the people that use my boats. I want them to be made right; but, I want the brand to be supported right too... and be around for many years. All it takes is one lawsuit to undermine a small-start up company.

My design incorporates all the latest is composite material and I am very experienced in composite lay-ups (fiberglassing, RTM, Etc.).

I am going to try a build a few proto-types and get out to a few close friends for some hardcore testing. Once, I beat the model in and out; I want to give something to the public that I will put my name on and my integrity behind....

Keep you up to date bud...
SM
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Old 09-24-2010, 09:42 AM
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Post Project Boat - Trailer (Part 1)

Troutman,

* First I would address one thing at a time and take the boat off and put it on some wooden horses (upside-down). I would cover it with a tarp. This will help keep the inside completely dry when you are ready to paint it.

** Second, you need to completely over-haul your trailer (fairly inexpensive). This is an area many overlook and it could be disastrous if something goes wrong.
-check the coupler for wear/damage. Does the cam lever come down easy on the ball? You can get a new kit at Northern Tool for a few dollars.
-are the tires/rims in good shape? These will cost about $50-75 each at Northern if they are dry-rotted. It looks like yours are in decent shape from the pictures. I would lift the trailer up and set the axle on some wooden blocks (do this in your permanent work area). Take both the tires of and clean them thoroughly. I would use a grinder to take care of the rust spots; spend some time on this and you can get rid of all the rust. Use duct tape to protect the tires and you can use it for paint masking later. Once you have it cleaned up; I would take a small paint brush and dip it in primer - use it to fill the old rust divots by blotting with a brush. Once you have built up the divots. Lightly sand so that it is flush with the old paint and put on a few coats of primer. After that; apply a couple coats of paint. Try not to rush your coats; let them set and build up and good protective coat. I neat trick to do after this process is to brush the rim with a light coat of fiberglass resin; it is tricky to not have runs and to get the catalyst mix right as to not kick too fast. After that; you can do another light sand and paint again...It should last until the next ice-age with minimal rust...
-completely rebuild your hubs on each wheel (~$20 total). Take out your old bearings and knock out the old races in the bugs and replace. I would clean the heck out of the old hub with a cheap wire brush and spray it with some primer to thwart future rust. Bearings+races cost around $10 at Northern-check your axle diameter. I would get bearing budding grease caps so you can keep your bearings greased (~$10) and some plastic bearing caps. I usually grease my bearings about 2-3 times a year based on about 75-100 boat trips (20 miles round trip).
-replace your bunks with some light weight wood - pine, etc. Take a sander and sand the ends smooth and any rough areas. Then, take a smaller roller and apply about 2-3 coats of resin to your boards. Let this dry. Set up your boards and mark your bolt holes in your boards. Then drill holes about 1/4" larger than your bolts in your boards. Counter sink your holes on both sides of the board about 3/8" to thwart the fiberglass from cracking when you install. Then put some resin down these holes; do not seal them up; just coat the sides. Buy some heavy-weight outdoor carpet at Lowes; get some stainless steal staples, glue gun-glue sticks. Apply your carpet with the staple gun and use the glue-gun to clean up any flaps or to help you keep things aligned. Locate your holes and cut a plus+ figure to attach to your trailer braces. Use galvanized bolts and make sure they are not sticking up as to rub your boat hull. You can add some silicon caulk in to the hole to protect from rot if you want to be even more through. You may want to add some sliders (plastic) pieces to your bunks if you find it difficult to get your boat off the trailer where you are launching. You can buy different densities of plastic at hardware stores over in the cut glass section. You can melt/bend/cut it very easy and it is fairly cheap. Just be cognitive of the new slickness when launching/trailering the boat.
-I would replace all the trailer wiring with LED if it is suspect while you have everything apart(~$50) for kit. Also weld or mount a piece of angle iron to protect each taillight from backing in to something. You can get this for a few dollars at most hardware stores. Paint it up; drill some holes and mount. You want to protect those lights. I ended up adding some cheap running lights as signal lights on my high boards. I just wired them in to the signal wire. You can use them as break lights or signal; just not both unless you add some kind of voltage relay; then-it would be cheaper to buy a combination brake, taillight, signal light. Use heat shrink tube for all your connections and I use a hot glue gun to firm up my connections for extra protection. Also, for mounting my wiring in some spots.


-Sand trailer very well; prime, paint, add pin-striping (~$2-3), add side reflectors (~$2)


*Check http://www.nhtsa.gov for exact placement of lights/reflectors/etc.

Hope this helps...Boat stuff is more involved and I will send Part 1 a bit later...
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  #6  
Old 09-24-2010, 11:27 AM
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gmreeves gmreeves is offline
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I'd make the trailer road worthy and the boat sea worthy and fish it as is. A boat with character adds to the experience and little to the cost.
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