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Old 02-12-2014, 02:50 PM
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BigMax BigMax is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: powell
Posts: 83
Default "RELEASE THE KRACKEN" a SBS

So as I’m stuck inside during SNOWMAGEDDON 14’ in Chattanooga I thought I would sit down to tie up a new pattern that I have been developing to mimic a crank-bait for the warm water fly rodder on my home lake - Chickamauga. I call it the Kracken, as in RELEASE THE KRACKEN! This fly was designed to dive wobble rattle then slowly float to the surface. Depending on the foam, it will even suspend after getting a little water logged. I have not seen anything else like this other than my favorite fly the Wiggle Minnow, but this fly offers some additional depth, pizzazz, and sound can be an advantage in stained water with the rattle and fly lipps.

Hook: 2/0 Gamakatsu B10-s (a Mustad 8089 will work in a pinch)
Thread: Mono or another 210 UTC ultra thread
Body: 1mm foam
Tail: pearl Krystal flash and buck tail
Other: dome eyes, 5mm rattle, Fly Lipp, Zap-a-Gap and Clear Cure Goo

Step 1: Start the thread and tie in the Fly Lipp making sure the lipp is aligned straight with the hook



Step 2: Tie in the 5mm rattle below the hook shank being liberal with the thread to insure that it stays put. I then lather the entire front of the hook with Clear Cure Goo to make sure its set in epoxy. Im sure the 5 minute stuff would work and even look better but im inpatient and really like the CCG.



Step 3: Tie in 4 grizzly hackle feathers (or Krystal flash or both). I consider this part A of the tail. Creativity is a plus but you will want to limit the weight. I prefer a longer tail, but that’s due to the larger meaner hungrier Florida stain bass in Ole’ Chickamauga lake. If I were fishing for trout or bass elsewhere id only use a tail the length of the hook shank.



Step 4: I loosely tie in some grey buck tail and use my fingers to evenly disperse the tips around the hook. Once I have the tail where I like it I use several tight wraps to synch it down tight.



Step 5: I use a Post-it note to make a stencil of the foam body of the fly before cutting the foam into the desired shape pictured below. This ensures that I have a good shape every time. I like to leave a little fat on the lower points so that I have something to pull on later when I’m gluing it down.



Step 6: I lather up the CCG’ed fly with Zap-a-Gap and also make sure to lightly coat the down side of the foam body and apply it to the fly moving quickly of course. I have discovered that a paper clip is the perfect tool to apply pressure and hold down the foam while the glue sets.



Step 7: After everything is dried, I trim the foam into the desired shape (remember that there was excess foam for the paper clip) and add some 3D eyes and, in this case, add some red highlights for a gill line.





VOILA…….GO FISH! In my opinion the fly performs its best with a sinking line and can reach 5-10 feet down depending on various conditions, but it also works great with a floating line.

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