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  #21  
Old 06-29-2008, 02:29 PM
danp413 danp413 is offline
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Gerry,

Preach on! I was a spin fisherman up until 5 or 6 years ago, and still do occasionally. What I've noticed though is now that I am a fly fisherman as well, I catch more fish no matter how I fish. Before, because I did not study the area I was fishing like I do now, I would guess at what the fish wanted, where they might be, and how to fish whatever I had tied on. I never tried to make my bait imitate the actions of what it was imitating. Needless to say, I did a lot better with live bait.

Now I understand where the fish live and feed, how the bait acts, and I look to see what is happening and pick my bait accordingly. And fly fishing is just a lot of fun. Especially catching a fish on a fly that I tied.

I also have realized that the professional fishermen have spent their time studying the fish they go after. They would not be very good fishermen if they had not.

Wgg, the problem I have seen with a lot of assortment packs from the "big box" stores is that they are not made with our waters in mind. I know the Dick's in K-town has a very bad selection of flies. You really would do better with a local fly shop, or ordering from LRO. Get a few of each kind of fly you need, instead of one or two that might work, along with 5 or 6 that won't work.
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  #22  
Old 06-29-2008, 04:49 PM
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Worrgamesguy Worrgamesguy is offline
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Originally Posted by danp413 View Post
Gerry,

Preach on! I was a spin fisherman up until 5 or 6 years ago, and still do occasionally. What I've noticed though is now that I am a fly fisherman as well, I catch more fish no matter how I fish. Before, because I did not study the area I was fishing like I do now, I would guess at what the fish wanted, where they might be, and how to fish whatever I had tied on. I never tried to make my bait imitate the actions of what it was imitating. Needless to say, I did a lot better with live bait.

Now I understand where the fish live and feed, how the bait acts, and I look to see what is happening and pick my bait accordingly. And fly fishing is just a lot of fun. Especially catching a fish on a fly that I tied.

I also have realized that the professional fishermen have spent their time studying the fish they go after. They would not be very good fishermen if they had not.

Wgg, the problem I have seen with a lot of assortment packs from the "big box" stores is that they are not made with our waters in mind. I know the Dick's in K-town has a very bad selection of flies. You really would do better with a local fly shop, or ordering from LRO. Get a few of each kind of fly you need, instead of one or two that might work, along with 5 or 6 that won't work.
Yeah, they seemed a little big. I'll take a picture of my fly box later and you guys can tell me what to use mainly. I plan on ordering some flies from LRO shortly.
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  #23  
Old 06-29-2008, 09:58 PM
Luke Warmwater Luke Warmwater is offline
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Hey Worrgamesguy,

Below are a couple of links for flies that will work pretty well at the Caney on low and/or falling water. Any of these in a #14- #20 will get some attention under an indicator and don't forget FREE SHIPPING!

http://littleriveroutfitters.com/sto...cat=940&page=3

http://littleriveroutfitters.com/sto...cat=940&page=3

http://littleriveroutfitters.com/sto...cat=940&page=4

http://littleriveroutfitters.com/sto...cat=940&page=4
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  #24  
Old 06-29-2008, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Luke Warmwater View Post
Hey Worrgamesguy,

Below are a couple of links for flies that will work pretty well at the Caney on low and/or falling water. Any of these in a #14- #20 will get some attention under an indicator and don't forget FREE SHIPPING!

http://littleriveroutfitters.com/sto...cat=940&page=3

http://littleriveroutfitters.com/sto...cat=940&page=3

http://littleriveroutfitters.com/sto...cat=940&page=4

http://littleriveroutfitters.com/sto...cat=940&page=4
Thanks, I appreciate the help. I've been hearing the rave about wooly buggers, midges, and nymphs, with streamers and pheasant tail flies mixed in occasionally. I try not to fish under the dam as it is way too crowded. I get scared when my fly sinks, because I don't know when I will have a fish on. I have some indicators, but I don't know what to look for if my fly is submerged. I started fly fishing 3 or so weeks ago and I went out to a local river (warmwater- stripe, bream, etc.) and practiced my casting and I couldn't find my fly because it had submerged. When I pulled up to do a few false casts to dry it off, I quickly found that I had something tugging back. I caught a tiny bluegill and didn't even know it, when I went to pick the fly line off the water I nearly took the fish with it.
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  #25  
Old 06-29-2008, 11:27 PM
danp413 danp413 is offline
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If your dry fly is sinking, it needs to be dried off. The use of floatants will help you out here. I like to use a gel on it first, just a little bit rubbed all over the fly. This will delay the sinking, and then use something like frogs fanny (a silicon powder you brush on the fly, but blow as much water off of it first so you do not use as much.) You can also get these from LRO.

As for how to tell if you have a strike, that is done by paying attention to your leader/tippet. First, try not to allow to much slack in it. Second, if it stops moving or moves a different direction from the current, you probably have a strike.

Remember that a fly rod is longer than most other rods, and therefore a much more powerful lever. If you try to set a hook with a fly rod like you would with a short spinning rod, you will likely pull the hook right out of the trouts mouth. If you are keeping your line tight like you should, all you will need to do to set the hook is strip your line. If you still want to use the rod to set the hook, do not yank it, just get your line tight.
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  #26  
Old 06-30-2008, 12:02 AM
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Worrgamesguy Worrgamesguy is offline
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Originally Posted by danp413 View Post
If your dry fly is sinking, it needs to be dried off. The use of floatants will help you out here. I like to use a gel on it first, just a little bit rubbed all over the fly. This will delay the sinking, and then use something like frogs fanny (a silicon powder you brush on the fly, but blow as much water off of it first so you do not use as much.) You can also get these from LRO.

As for how to tell if you have a strike, that is done by paying attention to your leader/tippet. First, try not to allow to much slack in it. Second, if it stops moving or moves a different direction from the current, you probably have a strike.

Remember that a fly rod is longer than most other rods, and therefore a much more powerful lever. If you try to set a hook with a fly rod like you would with a short spinning rod, you will likely pull the hook right out of the trouts mouth. If you are keeping your line tight like you should, all you will need to do to set the hook is strip your line. If you still want to use the rod to set the hook, do not yank it, just get your line tight.
I've heard about that floatant stuff, but Dick's didn't carry it. I would hate to see my line stop and set the hook to find out the fish had already swallowed the fly. I've seen where people yank the rod up, get the fly line out of the water, but fail to set the hook, and I'm sure that is what I will be doing.
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  #27  
Old 06-30-2008, 09:28 AM
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donwinn donwinn is offline
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Worrgamesguy,

You should use some type of strike indicator if fishing a nymph or sinking midge like a zebra midge. If I am fishing for big fish in very clear water, I use a dry fly as an indicator. You should use some type of adjustable strike indicator. You want the line below the indicator to be long enough to let the fly bounce off the bottom in the beginning. If you notice the fish are feeding higher in the water column, the depth will need to be adjusted. I would fish with a size 18-20 zebra midge. They are really small, but they catch lots of fish. If the strike indicator stops or drops, lift your line to set the hook.

Good luck!
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  #28  
Old 06-30-2008, 01:29 PM
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Worrgamesguy Worrgamesguy is offline
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Originally Posted by donwinn View Post
Worrgamesguy,

You should use some type of strike indicator if fishing a nymph or sinking midge like a zebra midge. If I am fishing for big fish in very clear water, I use a dry fly as an indicator. You should use some type of adjustable strike indicator. You want the line below the indicator to be long enough to let the fly bounce off the bottom in the beginning. If you notice the fish are feeding higher in the water column, the depth will need to be adjusted. I would fish with a size 18-20 zebra midge. They are really small, but they catch lots of fish. If the strike indicator stops or drops, lift your line to set the hook.

Good luck!
We still have to plan a trip, I need some guidance. I'm not sure how you work out fly fishing from a boat, but apparently you did well enough. If I'm not doing too hot under the dam, I ALWAYS go to the rest area and slay them (before I started fly fishing). Those little brookies they stock are fiesty.
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  #29  
Old 06-30-2008, 08:31 PM
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donwinn donwinn is offline
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Worrgamesguy,

My July is pretty booked. I am going to Texas for this long weekend - moving my youngest son's furniture from Lexington, KY. Then on the 19th, I leave for a week of fishing in Wyoming. I might be able to go on Friday afternoon one of the other two weekends. Send me an e-mail so I will have your address. Are you in Murfreesboro?
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  #30  
Old 06-30-2008, 11:42 PM
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Smyrna, Sam Ridley exit. I seem to have misplaced your email addy
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