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Old 01-20-2009, 12:13 AM
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Grousegunner Grousegunner is offline
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Default New to Warmwater...need help!

Hey Guys,

I've been fly fishing for about 4 years now, focusing exclusively on trout. However, I recently decided that it was time to target some of the warmwater species that are more accessible around home....mainly, largemouth and smallmouth bass, along with the occasional carp.

But, I need some help picking out the right rod, reel, and line combo to target these fish. I'm thinking about getting a TFO Professional Series 9' 7wt, with an Orvis Mid Arbor IV. I'm not sure what line to use for throwing big bass flies. Right now I'm thinking about one of the Orvis or Scientific Anglers Bass tapers.

I was hoping that some of you warmwater specialists could give me some advice on effective rod, reel, and line combinations for largemouth and smallmouth bass. For what it's worth, I plan on throwing a lot of poppers and other large, wind-resistant flies.

Thanks for the help,
Grousegunner
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Old 01-20-2009, 10:20 AM
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7wt is a good choice in my opinion. SA bass taper is what I use in a floating line and love it. I also have an 8wt set up with a sink tip line for clousers and even wooly buggers. We fish any where from 1' to 20' deep. And alot of drop offs. The reel you chose is what I use also along with one nautilus for stripers. Sounds like you are on the right path to me.
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Old 01-20-2009, 12:29 PM
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Grousegunner Grousegunner is offline
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Thanks for the advice flyred06!

What size sink tip do you use for the streamer patterns. I was thinking about a Scientific Anglers Streamer Express 200 grain. Should I go heavier?

Grousegunner
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Old 01-20-2009, 01:49 PM
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yes that should do just fine. Especially if you fish heavy weighted clousers. I typically fish a 1 to a 2/0 half and half or clouser on the sink tip and a size 6, 4, 2 on the woolly. If you fish alot of covert missions a 6wt with a regular floating line will do just fine.
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Old 01-20-2009, 02:55 PM
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Main point about rod is stiffness. Bass have a much harder mouth, and anything but a tip flex will result in a lot of missed strikes. I use a fibreglass 7 wt for smallies, and a fibreglass 8 wt. for largemouth. Also use a 4/5 wt for panfish, but cannot always prevent a bass from horning in on a bug or popper small enough for a bream. Hybrid bluegill on the 4/5 is a hoot.
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Old 01-20-2009, 02:58 PM
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P.S. to last post. I have found overlining one weight makes it easier to load stiff rod with big deer hair fly or bass popper.
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Old 01-20-2009, 03:06 PM
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I will some what agree with that. Except that most people (B.A.S.S.) people think you have to have a broom handle to handle a bass but you truly do not. I use a mid flex rod most all the time except for using sink tips. If you keep a check on your hooks for sharpness you will be surprised at how technique over comes stiffness. I to fish with fiberglass and cane. My cane rod is a 6wt and my fiberglass is actually a 4wt (but it is faster than most fiberglass rods). But truly cast several rods in different flexes to just see which you will like casting all day. I choose midflex due to my arm is not as tired at the end of the day. Comfort means more time on the water more cast and more fish. Or at least that is how it is suppose to work.
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Old 01-22-2009, 03:44 PM
BuckeyeRick BuckeyeRick is offline
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I have moved to a 6wt for my Bass/Carp rod. I found the 8wt to be too heavy to cast all day and the 6 handles everything pretty well. The regular Bass tapers are fine, but take a look at the Mastery Headstart line or the new Orvis Trout Powertaper. Both are basically a half size heavier and more of the weight is pushed up front. As long as you're looking at the TFO Pro, take a look at the Orvis Clearwater II series. The Mid-Arbor is a great reel. I have one on my Steelhead rod, smooth as buttered glass.
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Last edited by BuckeyeRick; 01-23-2009 at 12:32 PM..
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