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  #11  
Old 03-18-2010, 04:39 PM
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JohnH0802 JohnH0802 is offline
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Thanks Barry, I think that I am going to have to give that a try. This is a topic that I wasn't familiar with at all. On another note, I am thinking about taking my daughter and fishing partner on a last minute trip to Cherokee this weekend. Right now the plan is to tent camp on Big Cove, then hit the straight fork....will fish all day Sat, and Sunday morning at least.

John
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  #12  
Old 03-22-2010, 12:44 PM
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Scott,

Dont mean to make this even more confusing but I was somewhat surprised with the responses myself.

For the Trophy section I have always used a 6wt with 4X and 3X. I guess I am a little rougher. laughting this over with my buddy we were talking about how easy some of those big trout where breaking our lines. Might need to more on my finesse,

I use a 4wt with 6x and 7x in the Park backcountry.

Good Luck
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  #13  
Old 03-22-2010, 01:04 PM
Carlito Carlito is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carolina Boy View Post
Hey John, OK Mr. Edmonds did this demonstration at a fly shop when i first met him and it I think that it is highly effective in revealing where the power and strengh in the rod is. Take a fly rod 5, 6, 7 whatever weight, rig it with a leader doesn't mateer the length or size, then tie the end of the leader around the top of a regular water bottle that has water in it, next let out some line and get a regular folding chair, or any chair you then put the bottle on the ground behind the chair and run the leader over the back rest so that the bottle is on the ground behind the chair which is facing you, what you are going to do is rais the fly rod so that the bottle of water rises off the ground as the back of the chair is between the rod tip and the bottle acting as a fulcrum ( i think fulcrum is what it is called?) first rais the rod on an angle such that the rod tip is what is raising the bottle, see how much the tip flexes in relation to the amount the bottle is lifted, next point the rod tip at the chair/bottle and rais the rod in a manner that is parallel to the ground allowing the rear section of the rod to take the brunt of the work, you will be surprised how little effort and strain it takes to move the weighted bottle using the rear section of the rod versus the tip, so this translates in to more pressure and power you can utlilze while fighhting a fish. Now this isn't something that is critical when caching small trout or whatever, this is a power thing and shows you what angles you need to take to put the most effective pressure on big fish to get the most out of the rod, Hope i explained that well?
Very cool illustration! I'd like to see someone do a demo like that at Troutfest this year.

Just to be devils advocate, you do need to remember to keep your tip up when you're fighting a real bruiser to prevent breaking your tippet material. Probably never a problem in the park, but if you hook into a real lunker you gotta watch out.
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  #14  
Old 03-22-2010, 01:15 PM
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A rod that is designed to fight fish as well as cast should be able to protect the tippet without having to have the butt section perpendicular to the fish. The rod only has to soften the explosive bursts and head shakes of the fish before the reel begins to let line off of the spool to further protect the tippet.
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  #15  
Old 04-06-2010, 09:58 PM
Jswitow Jswitow is offline
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Default Weight for the trophy section.

Take the larger rods. From what I hear, a lot of those fish have been turning up dead, apparently from too long a fight? You may land them with the 4 wt, but take too long doing it and they die just the same. If fishing nymphs step up to a heavier leader by one size.
Best,
John
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  #16  
Old 04-06-2010, 11:22 PM
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Interesting response about fight time and killing the fish. Saw a guy on the Clinch just standing and holding his rod as a fish tugged away. He never touched the reel to try to get the fish to him for a long time. As I continued to watch, the fish finally gave it up and surfaced and the guy eased him into his net. He released the fish but I couldn't tell if it survived or not. I usually let them make a run or two before getting them to the surface and netting them as quickly as possibly. Have only had one to go belly up on me so far. So, the question is, how long is too long to play a fish? Obviously, play it too hard and fast and run the risk of it breaking off. Play it too long and it may die. I use a 5 weight on the Clinch and a 3 weight in the park down low and a 2 weight up higher. Usually use 6X tippet on all and losing more to break-off on the Clinch.
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  #17  
Old 04-07-2010, 06:48 AM
Rocketroy Rocketroy is offline
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Thumbs up Works a charm!

Since the length of the fight,is what kills trout,I have adopted and demonstrate to others,what will land/release the bruisers safely to live another day.......and yes I fish a 4 wt,and fish weekly on private Soque and Cherokee trophy waters! You will quick-release a large trout occasionally,by this technique, but after all,such waters are catch and release anyway! After the usually first two/three runs,and sulks/head shakes, I find that ,when the surface is broken by the fish,and you have him in slow water,where you have urged him, that very quick and aggressive line stripping,and constant rod bend will allow you to "SKID', the fish into your net,by keeping the head up, and not allowing the fish to leverage his tail movement! This works like a charm,to land within minutes strong fish,that others on the reel spend far too much energy in the "Fight!" Such quotes as ' "I fought him for 20 min.s down thru two pools and got this picture," may just lead to another unknown trout kill, unfortunately! Works for me,and can for you too! Regards, Rocketroy
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  #18  
Old 04-07-2010, 09:49 AM
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A lot of stocked fish die because they grew up in a hatchery that are plagued with sickness and are dropped into a wild environment. There have been studies done on a lot of streams where the stocked fish main mortality cause are natural and not fishing related. While I agree that a fish needs to be fought as quickly as possible so it can have a safe release, I don't beleive a larger rod is the answer. I think a bigger tippet is the main way and proper use of leverage with the rod regardless of "weight."
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  #19  
Old 04-09-2010, 09:21 AM
pineman19 pineman19 is offline
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Good informational thread on fighting larger fish. I used to always hold a rod high, thought that was the best way to leverage a fish. I've started using the sideways method to steer larger fish into shallower water and get them on top where I can slide them into the net. It works good with a 4 weight Imperial I have and I agree that the size of tippet makes a big difference when fighting bigger fish.


Neal
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