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#11
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I am connecting the two hooks using beading wire from a craft store. Be careful about what kind of wire you get because the copper wire is a lot like the stuff you get that is sold as "lead free wire" for weighting flies. It breaks easily. Get tough stuff that won't break... David Perry of Southeastern Fly showed me how to tie it in. Here is a good link on how he connects the hooks... I'm experimenting on how to prevent the trailing end from fouling. One thing I am doing is gluing the rabbit strip on the first larger hook to the head of the trailing fly... Haven't had the opportunity yet to really test them out so will report back on how well it works. I generally do NOT weight my patterns, preferring to fish them on fast sinking lines. However this pattern contains lead eyes, around which you spin the deer hair. I'm not very good at working with deer hair and for me that was the tough part of this pattern. I can tie the trailing fly in a couple of minutes and most of the main fly in 3-4 minutes...its just that deer hair head that takes time...
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"Then He said to them, 'Follow Me, and I will make you fishers of men.'" Matthew 4:19 http://thetroutzone.blogspot.com The Trout Zone on Facebook contact: drknapp83 at gmail dot com |
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#12
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To keep the back portion from fouling you can either remove some of the front hook (just past the bend) or tie a separate larger loop UNDER the one that attaches (hinges) the rear hook. This larger loop should be of just sufficient size to hold the rear hook up in a near horizontal position.
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#13
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Very nice Cody. You need to come over and see if there are any pheasant feathers that I have that you'd like to experiment with. I have tons of assorted feathers in the freezer.
I have taken a small break from the tying for a while. Soon...
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Jason jasonkelkins at yahoo dot com |
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#14
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Quote:
![]() I'll try to get some 1.5mm foam next time I'm in Townsend. |
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#15
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Quote:
I bought a box of dai-riki nymph hooks....I'll bring the beer if you've got feathers. |
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